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When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.